[quote=B-F-F-B|56824605]Gaba som man kan beställa på hälsokost går att göra till ghb
Modified GABA to GBL conversion and
extraction method for amateur chemists
By Cleaver, February 2005
Original chemistry and methodology by
Chromic
Introduction:
Welcome amateur chemists! I have performed the GABA to GBL conversion several
times using this method and it works very nicely. MANY thanks to Chromic for the
initial conversion process documentation.
How does this process work? 10,000 foot level:
Sandmeyer reaction: Using Hydrochloric acid, combine GABA and sodium
Nitrite. Convert them into GBL
Now, the GBL molecule is floating in the solution as a non-polar molecule.
Using DCM (Dichloromethane, AKA Methylene Chloride) extract the GBL
molecule INTO the DCM solution.
Distill the DCM @ ~40C
Distill the GBL @ ~150C (under vacuum) or 200C at sea level.
Convert GBL to GHB
Done!
Reagents and quantities:
1 Mol pure GABA
1 Mol pure Sodium Nitrite NaNO2 (NOT Nitrate)
1 Mol concentrated Hydrochloric acid HCL(aq)
1320ml of DCM (Dichloromethane)
233ml distilled water
Some baking soda NaHCO3 (quantity to be determined based upon quantity of actual GBL
extracted)
Ok. So, lets calculate the actual grams and ml s required:
1 mol GABA = ~103.1g
1 mol Sodium Nitrite = ~69g
1 mol concentrated HCL(aq) (note: concentrated simply refers to 30-36% HCL at room
temperature) = ~111.6ml (31%) 92.6ml (36%)
NOTE: 31% HCL is roughly 9.6mols / liter and 36% HCL is roughly 12 mols / liter.
Always try to use concentrated acid as this form of HCL has the least amount of water
possible.
A few notes on reagents:
There are roughly 4 grades of reagents:
Industrial (low grade, probably contains heavy metals)
Technical (high grade)
ACS (Very high grade, or at the very least analyzed and the heavy metal content
is printed on the label)
Food quality (Nothing harmful, but may contain fillers)
Always go for technical or ACS if possible. At the very least make sure whatever you
are buying has been analyzed for purity. For instance, you can buy GABA on EBAY in
Ziploc bags for dirt-cheap. This stuff might be pretty good, as it s been purchased in bulk
from a very high-grade manufacturer.
ANY reagents with fillers WILL upset the reaction and may, in fact, completely ruin your
yield. Do not buy from GNC. They have a bad reputation for selling food grade reagents
with lots of fillers.
Suggested equipment
The following are only suggestions. I purchased high quality equipment simply because I
was such a novice, I needed to have as few mistakes as possible. If you are an expert
chemist, you can probably do this with a paper bag and a ball of twine.
Glassware. Only buy glassware with 24/40 glass joints. Glass joints make it
really easy to assemble the apparatus and ensure a good seal.
o 1 X 1L flask
o 1 X 2L flask
o 1 X Distillation head (attach picture)
o 1 X Distillation/Reflux condenser (attach picture)
o 1 X 500ml separation funnel (attach picture)
o Set of 4 measuring columns (10ml, 50ml, 100ml, 500ml or equivalent)
o 1 X Vacuum adapter (attach picture)
Miscellaneous
o 1 X rubber cork
o 2 X 10 ¼ inner diameter rubber hosing
o Set of plastic funnels
o Long glass thermometer 0-400C
o Clamps and stands
o Keck clamps (to hold the different glass pieces together)
o Aluminum foil
o Automobile AC insulation hosing
o Lots of paper towels
o Lots of rubber gloves
o Eye protection (industrial, not eye glasses)
o Spill absorbent material
o Non-powder chemical spill fire extinguisher (I have an old Halon unit,
pre-ban)
Mechanical stuff
o Vacuum pump capable of ~23 inHg vacuum (23 inches of mercury is
VERY easy to obtain. Even a crappy diaphragm pump can do this if it s
in decent working order)
o Electric hotplate/ magnetic stirring device
o EBAY special 3-beam balance. This is not rocket science.
Good water supply. I rigged up a PUR water purifier to be my
distillation/reflux supply. Basically, I took the plastic adapter off a tube of glue
and glued it to the PUR unit using Gorilla Glue (Gorilla glue can actually glue
plastics, ceramic, and glass impressive stuff)
NOTE: A heated magnetic stirring device is one of the wisest investments you can
make. Being able to peg a temperature and keep a solution mixing under a variety of circumstances is incredibly useful. The unit I purchased is pretty expensive, but it has the added advantage of being able to heat the solution to a desired range and peg it there with no intervention.
Step 1) Sandmeyer Reaction
The Sandmeyer reaction (RXN) is the process of slowly dripping a nitric acid into a
solution with the intent of creating diazonium salts from amines. What this means to you
is: You will be handling dangerous concentrations of HCL and potentially generating a
very nasty gas called Nitrous Dioxide. NO2 naturally forms during the RXN when you
allow the exothermic reaction to spiral out of control. In other words, while dripping acid
into the solution, heat is generated. If that heat increases too much, a brown gas will
form. When too much brown gas forms, you are exposing yourself to a VERY reactive,
poisonous gas.
Additionally, the concentrations of HCL you will be handling will also generate a caustic
gas at room temperature.
SO! During this stage remember the following:
Wear latex gloves and eyewear before, during, and after the handling of
concentrated HCL. This means wearing protection WHILE you are washing your
glassware. Splashing concentrated HCL on you is not pleasant.
Vent the area with STRONG ventilation. I purchased a high power shop vacuum
from Grizzley industrial to handle the ventilation. Not the kind with a 3 in hose,
but a 5 in hose. Industrial duty (meaning can run 24 hours a day). Your
bathroom fan is not strong enough. Also, I control my vent with a variac
transformer so I can vary the suction strength.
Buy a organic vapor gas mask from Home depot (or equivalent). Professional
painters use them. This mask may come in handy if something goes wrong and
you need to shut off the dripping apparatus.
Keep a chemical absorbent handy in a bag. If the apparatus tips over or leaks, you
will have a real nasty chemical spill on your hands. Chemical absorbent will save
you a lot of trouble.
Step 1.1 Prepare your solution
Take your 1L flask and put it in a large Tupper wear container (PLASTIC! Glass
dispels heat too fast, you will see why shortly).
Put the flask and container on the magnetic stirring plate and fill the flask with the
distilled water.
Drop in a magnetic stirrer and set the stirring at 300 RPM
Measure the GABA powder and add to the flask with a funnel. You may need to
poke it through with a glass rod. Make sure the GABA is completely dissolved
before continuing.
Measure the Sodium Nitrite and add to the flask with a funnel. Same as with
GABA.
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